Magic Margiela
A couple of weeks ago on a sunny breathy Sunday afternoon I visited the Margiela exhibition at Somerset House. Maison Martin Margiela has been the iconic break-through artistic fashion designer since the 80s. In October 2008 MMM celebrated its 20th anniversary. This exhibition at Somerset House pays tribute to those 20 years and salutes one of the world’s most influential fashion houses.
MMM ’20′ The exhibition is not a classic retrospective exhibition. It’s probably the best fashion exhibition I have been to. I will show you the reason slowly…
One of the most remarkable characteristics of Maison Martine Margiela is its consistent use of white, or better said, all possible shades of white, in the collection, in the interiors of its offices, shops and showrooms and even invitations. I have previously blogged about the new released perfume ‘Untitled’ which was in a white medical-look-a-like bottom.
MMM is especially known for its deconstructivist approach, its fashion shows in unexpected places and its taste for recovery and recycling materials. Entrance hall has a projection of catwalk video in front of a line of statues of ‘Tailoring / Shoulders’. The shoulder is an important element in the MMM silhouette.
Tabi boots have also become one of their most iconic objects. They are inspired by Japanese tabi which are ankle-high socks with a split for the big toe and are worn with traditional Japanese sandals. Tabi boots has the split for the big toe from pumps to platform sandals to boots.
More details and images after the jump…
The covering of materials and garments with paint is also a significant trait in MMM’s oeuvre. Not only clothing, but also furniture, as well as store, showroom and office interiors are repainted white. Recycled garments regain a new surface texture after repainting in white or silver.
Under dress cut to form a sleeveless blouse, partly laminated with silver foil.
Cotton T-shirt with printing that suggests a painted-over effect, however still remains its softness.
A mannequin dressed with 2 different fur coats is split in the middle by a large mirror. And from either side of the mirror, you will see an illusion of a full garment from the reflection. There’re lots of brilliant ideas being used into the curation work of the exhibition, which makes the exhibition not feeling too aged but very modernist and futuristic.
Below image shows a terrific creation of layering. White dinner jacket is worn with layers of rhinestone necklace, then cleverly semi covers up the blingness with a tulle shawl on the front of the jacket.
A tailored jacket with embellished mat sequins in black, grey and white.
Classical Wardrobe area shows a countless variations of trench coat. Very different from a classic Burberry trench, MMM trench plays cutting details on shoulders (like picture below). The cut of the shoulder line is inspired by a seat cover.
Trench coat evoking the look of someone sheltering from the rain underneath the coat, with the collar ending at the top of the head. The neck and shoulder lines have been elongated so that the coat can be worn as a hood. When not worn high up, the collar envelops the shoulders.
A series of garments are displayed flat on the wall. Some of them are inspired by our normal daily objects such as supermarket plastic shoppers.
Different materials are constructed together to form this amazing pair magic foot number.
These are installation for the men’s collections at ‘An Exhibition Before Regurbishment’, in order to advertise the opening of Maison Martin Margiela store in Hong Kong in July 2006.
Here’s a long magic wall with large pewter colour mirrors in different framed location. If you stand there a bit longer, each mirror will light up in unpredictable order and shows a show box behind.
Each show box contains an iconic piece.
This sculpt shoulder T-shirt is actually… ….
… …embellished with hundreds of buttons. The hours amount for each creation was labeled on the glass case as well.
Then…finally I walked into the Birthday Room. Compilation of images from the fashion shows, films and photography are showing here on each side of 3 walls. You will be sitting on white-sheet-covered Margiela sofa. The first wall I sat down and watched was showing 3 video footage of 3 Margiela fans showing a wardrobe diaries from London, Munich and Amsterdam.
The other 2 walls are installation of different sizes of screens showing shows, MMM office interiors and interviews. Background music was very upbeat. I tried to ‘shazam’ the music on iPhone, however, they must be too cool songs, so the computer doesn’t recognize any of them.
The whole exhibition is very worth going. Not only with a fair £6 on ticket but with the entire modern technology it contains I really think it’s the best fashion exhibition.
