// Fade to #C5C5C5

The African Spirit – Bestow Elan

My recent visit to Pure London was a completely different experience compared to 2 years ago. It has more diversity to the range of selected brands and designers. A group of new young talents emerging through London’s fashion scene and my feeling is, they definitely feel more prepared and matured. One of them is a true born and bred Brixton designer, Erzumah Ackerson, who draws her inspiration from both classic and vintage stimuli, as well as influences from her Ghanaian heritage. I was first drawn to her Moroccan blue head wrap scarf which strongly contrasted to her skin, then my attention stopped on her cleverly cut n’ cross n’ twisted jersey long maxi.

The looped hem detail reminds me the scarf wrapping method I learnt from Morocco. With so many maxis for this summer in flared or in tube, Bestow Elan’s looped hem ‘Toga’ maxi Dress looks fresh and new.

The way she uses African print is also very subtle, a little bit here and there which you can just feel about it, but not overly covered. Like the dress here below, print only peeping out from inside layer of sleeves.

…or like this one, print is contrasted with draped fluid silk on the waist area.

With tribal african print become more and more commercial these days, you probably find it normally in a very safe cut of summer tea dress shape. However, I always wish the vibrant print could be formed in a more modern and unique way instead of a simple tea dress. Bestow Elan is just exactly what I was looking for.

Ackerson use

Tags: African Print, Bestow Elan

Wapping Project & Moonshine Cinema

Last Saturday we went to The Wapping Project, a gallery/restaurant/bar=cool hang out place at Wapping Hydraulic Power Station on Wapping Wall. The place is hosting a BBQ with outdoor black & white movie cinema for their 10th Anniversary.

As you seen, the place is beautifully re-done. It was originally the local hydraulic power station and bought by this couple who was high in british theatre industry. They have kept the most features and made the place somehow not just a cool place but feeling warm, welcome and homy although you will be sitting surrounded by big machines.

With the soft early evening sunlight, the place looks so cinematic…

Candles were lit everywhere to soften the aged machines… …

…they have thought about every single little details… the rolling bar stools…

…the still water jugs seem to have their own lives… …

…and jars of cookies probably know most of stories about here?

love the coordination of rusty iron…sea green…soft grey and black table…

when you walk downstairs, even toilette area is a must-photograph zone… battered concrete wall with glass doors…

BBQ area is located outside, you have 4 different salads.

1. feta cheese – tomato – black olives – basil – salad

2. runner beans – beatroot – salad

3. big couscous – peas – celery – salad

4. cucumber – crunchy seaweed – radish – salad

Their extremely-crunchy-home-made bread is deliiiiicious!

For BBQ meat dish, you could have either Lamb / Prawns / Sardines / Sausages plus 2 types of salads from above.

If you are a vegetarian, you will have 4 salads. Total BBQ per portion per head was £12 which is very reasonable.

So here is the lamb…

…with Sardines…

…and giant tiger prawns… …yum yum!!

And the cinema showed a black & white classic called ‘Of Human Bondage’…I have to agree that all old movies are kind of confusing. Some of the plots and scenes are not so connected in our modern logic mind, but hey…the atmosphere was amazing. They have deck chairs and lots of cushions. My best advice? Take a blanket and lots of snacks!!

BBQ is £12 starts from 7pm and ‘Moonshine Cinema’ is £7 starts at 9pm.

All movie schedules until 28th August is as below:

Friday 6th Agugust – Timecode (15) 2000, Mike Figgis (97mins)

Saturday 7th August – Dark Victory (PG) 1939, Edmund Goulding (104mins)

Friday 13th August – Samson & Delilah (15), 2009, Warwick Thornton (97mins)

Saturday 14th August – Now, Voyager (PG), 1942, Irving Rapper (117mins)

Friday 20th August – The Unloved (5), 2009, Samantha Morton (103mins)

Saturday 21st August – All About Eve (U), 1950, Joseph L.Mankiewicz (138mins)

Friday 27th August – Sweet Sixteen (18), 2002, Ken Loach (106mins)

Saturday 28th August – What Ever Happened To Baby Jane? (12), 1962, Robert Aldrich (134mins)

Magic Margiela

A couple of weeks ago on a sunny breathy Sunday afternoon I visited the Margiela exhibition at Somerset House. Maison Martin Margiela has been the iconic break-through artistic fashion designer since the 80s. In October 2008 MMM celebrated its 20th anniversary. This exhibition at Somerset House pays tribute to those 20 years and salutes one of the world’s most influential fashion houses.

MMM ‘20′ The exhibition is not a classic retrospective exhibition. It’s probably the best fashion exhibition I have been to. I will show you the reason slowly…

One of the most remarkable characteristics of Maison Martine Margiela is its consistent use of white, or better said, all possible shades of white, in the collection, in the interiors of its offices, shops and showrooms and even invitations. I have previously blogged about the new released perfume ‘Untitled’ which was in a white medical-look-a-like bottom.

MMM is especially known for its deconstructivist approach, its fashion shows in unexpected places and its taste for recovery and recycling materials. Entrance hall has a projection of catwalk video in front of a line of statues of ‘Tailoring / Shoulders’. The shoulder is an important element in the MMM silhouette.

Tabi boots have also become one of their most iconic objects. They are inspired by Japanese tabi which are ankle-high socks with a split for the big toe and are worn with traditional Japanese sandals. Tabi boots has the split for the big toe from pumps to platform sandals to boots.

More details and images after the jump…

» Read the full post

Tags: Burberry, Maison Martin Margiela

‘Try to Find the Way Out’

Since Diesel purchased the majority of Maison Martin Margiela, they have been digging their brains to present new designs each season. With  the departure of designer himself Diesel is trying to show the world MMM has still got the signature style and as well opening new fields. One of the first of all was the limited perfume ‘Untitled’ released just a short while ago. I couldn’t help but became one of its cosumer. (see article here)

Line 13 has always been a strange collection line of MMM, full of surprise. Theme is always ‘the object’, which could be everything and anything from bottle opener to desk lamp. New object of this Spring Summer 2010 is actually not too strange to all of us as we have often seen and admired  it in MMM boutique—-the fake french door wallpaper.

I bet many of us have been wishing to purchase it in the past years and now it’s dream comes true! Diesel group might be doing a hard job on MMM label without its legendary designer, however, with the massive finance support Diesel is definitely trying to find a way out!

MMM line 13 – new white object
http://www.maisonmartinmargiela.com/en/news/index.html

Tags: Maison Martin Margiela

Be Square and Be There!

Back in March during Paris Fashion Week I had a blog about Phoebe Philo and Celine and couldn’t help showing my admiration of Phoebe’s credibility. So recently when I walked into Selfridges ground floor, again I was stopped by the big section of Celine handbag collection. The shop assistance at Celine section was very patient to show me one after another, even after I told her that there’s no way I would buy one in this couple of months, which I think it’s extremely kind.

The new It Bag is small and square and with a long strap… and is cleverly designed with a ’stick-out’ buckle to press down to open, which is quite different from the traditional magnetic or twist-n-turn opening style. It has 2 different sizes and is made in almost any possible colour and material. The most interesting one is this one with a puzzled-looking surface. I had to request a further detailed explanation from the assistance.

It’s made of Shagreen and from Wikipedia explains it — ‘Shagreen is a type of leather or rawhide consisting of rough untanned skin, formerly made from a horse’s back or that of an onager (wild ass), and typically dyed green. Shagreen is now commonly made of the skins of sharks and rays.’ But it’s made sure that all skins are from farmed animals, which means there’s no rare or nearly distinctive animals being used. For example this one looks like a snake skin. It’s printed and stamped the 3D texture as snake skin, but actually it’s made of calf skin.

The collection is designed extremely thought-through. It’s been consider on some small details but so practical. This electric cornflower one is actually 3 zippy clutch bags snapped together, which can be separated and used individually.

Same detail is used on wallets — a little zipped coin wallet is clipped onto inside of a fold-up wallet — which can be detached and used like a little clutch on a night-out — and it’s contrasted either in colour or in a different material — for example the outside fold-up wallet is in washed black leather and inside zippy clutch is in brown sued. So clever, isn’t it?!!

There’re also some colour blocking leather totes. Orange on tan, black on tan, or most amazingly white sheep skin on black leather.

More pictures from Tommy Ton’s pictures during Paris Fashion Week can be found on Style.com.

Tags: Celine, Phoebe Philo

Fresh Spring Scent

I think myself like lots of other peopIe are very picky on perfumes. It has to be a right clever bottle design, with thoughtful name matching brand’s philosophy, and most importantly an attractive smell. After learning the news from Stylebubble about Margiela’s new perfume, my curiosity is growing hugely on what sort of scent he would create for his women.

It’s called ‘untitled’ which seems like some unspeaking magic and it looks like a little clinic bottle containing some fresh green spring water.  Also, I read somewhere, that you can use the bottle for other purpose when it’s finished. However, I need to work out how to open the bottle top later.

Follow the instruction printed on inside of box lid, I need to cut the wrapped cotton cords to be able to open the bottle.

First spray on my wrist, it smells a little herbal-ish or even manly…then it develops into a fresh cut-grass smell…which is all very matching to Margiela’s unique fashion spirit…as time pass by…it turns into a womanly smell…fresh like a soap (definitely not show gel) washed your body in the summer…More technical words from L’Oreal as it was created under the auspices of L’Oreal—’This perfume includes of course the codes of the brand, while cultivating its personality. Based on green floral notes, we can smell galbanum, boxwood, mastic, incense, bitter orange … as if they had been gathered after the rain.’

It’s currently selling exclusively to Selfridges in London and it murdered £54.50 in my bank account for a precious 50ml. I hope you will like it too.

Tags: Maison Martin Margiela

20 mins Research of…

I really love the pronunciation of Rodarte — Ro-daaa-tay. Can’t name why,  Maybe subconsciously it sounds like ‘Roald Dahl’ and maybe it sounds like a franco-dutch word. I guess it’s just like someone’s a natural-born beauty, this word is a natural born sound-good. But it keeps bugging me, why the talented fine-arty-literature-studying sisters chose this name as their brand’s name??

After a solid researching of 20 mins on-line….(yeah, I really didn’t think it could be that hard to find normally and I know this time is including reading through articles and articles)…I eventually found the answer on an interview on vogue.it. It’s from their mother’s name Rodart, which is an old latin-french name and they add E at the end, just make the whole word sound more artful. (you can read the full interview here.) (and I also wonder since when using their mother’s maiden name become a trend? Proenza Schoulder is also a combination of the 2 boy’s mom’s names.)

During the whole research process I noticed that the sisters have just launched the new menswear line. Although a few pieces only, but totally adorable (same as the price).

Then I realized the famous (or rather infamous) gown worn by Keira Knightley a few years ago  of which appreciated different critics is also by Rodarte.

Then Rodarte, Joyce HK and Unicef collaborated together 4 outfits to raise money and all 4 outfits are inspired by 4 different movies by most influential artistic actress Maggie Cheung. (Very clever move, if they’ve chosen other actresses, i wouldn’t look at the sisters in the same way.)

From the movie ‘Hero’…

From the movie ‘in the mood for love’…

From Maggie’s early year movie ‘Heroic Trio’…

From Cannes Film Festival winner ‘Clean’…

Rodarte’s story is like a modern legend. Their style is futuristic and post-apocalyptic (modern – tick). Within a short a few years, Rodarte fast becomes world famous by mainly spreading out by internet bloggers (modern – tick). Although they started with choosing celebrity as their media-carrier at the beginning, they certainly has won Anna Wintour’s favour with the first 10 piece collection. Rest of all is already history. With the world spinning so fast and many old fashion houses are struggling, Rodarte will become a major part of new blood and a house name to nowadays fashion world.

Tags: Cannes Film Festival, Clean, Hero, Heroic Trio, In the Mood for Love, Maggie Cheung, Rodarte

More Fantasy than Reality

It has been a while that reality TV shows being occupied in people daily life since a decade ago when Big Brother introduced to our life. Then came the pop reality show in 2002 which brings onto another level. I couldn’t agree more when I read the quote somewhere recently refers as ‘reality TV shows bring people back to human-to-human / human-to-beast arena fight around the Roman time’. However, after nearly a decade of pity fight in all kinds of angles, the reality recalls our basic instinct as human being, looking for a hope. And the ‘hope’ which was the last thing remained in Pandora’s box generates more fantasy thoughts.

In 2010, we see fantasy taking in all different art forms, from movie to fashion to illustration.

Avatar is no doubt the number one fantasy sci-fi movie for 2010. The colours (especially the deep crystal blue), the technology (new camera technology evolved just for the film), the message (save the planet)…all of which are quite fantasized.

Then never mention the upcoming Alice in Wonderland. Trailer sounds like a sequel story of Alice ‘returning’ to the Wonderland.

Alexander McQueen brings back the imagination of lost land ‘Atlantis’. The alien-reptile print, the hoof shoe, the titanic heel…

McQueen SS10 show

Clothes become more dreamy for Spring/Summer 2010. Vogue UK February 2010 reports the ‘Pretty Chic’…Natalia Vodianova is looking fresh.

Fashion editorial and illustration are focusing on this romantic power too.

Vogue February 2010 issue

and that reminds me an old illustration I’ve done back in the university.

and again…discovering Reed and Rader’s portofolio

and illustration from Banshee Beat

At the end this simple point of view slowly formed in my head—Reality is from human’s nature and fantasy is from interactions between human intellectuals and the surrounding environment.

Tags: Alexander McQueen, Alice in Wonderland, Atlantis, Avatar, Banshee Beat, British Vogue, Fantasy, Fashion Illustration, Natalia Vodianova, Reed and Rader, Romantic

Mr. Kenzo

Kenzo is one of my three admirable Japanese designers. (other 2 are Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, founder of Comme des Garcons) First time seeing his interview in fashion magazine was in early 90s and inside interview it shows, that the designer has an international mind and global taste. His most remarkable skill is to recreate different illustration and patterns of flowers for more than 1001 versions. His collection path shows a string of tribal vibes from Japanese to Russian to African. All colours are softly merged together, kind of soothing your eye-balls despite the global village influence. Then minimalism and punks and futuristic comes and goes. No one seems to be noticing Kenzo that much until this SS2010 collection came out.

Although Mr.Kenzo has now retired from his company, new design team has very well inherited Kenzo’s spirit and SS2010 collection, I have to admit, is my most favourite show of the season.

Fashion is about fun, about mix and match. Anyone can look great in an amazing dress, however, how to pull layers and layers of clothes together correctly, that requests some fine taste and balance.

I simply love the grey boxy suit jacket with sequin-embellished top half, teamed with soft lantern-shape crop trousers.

Soft rusty colour soft bomber jacket over draped chainy cocktail dress.

Bleached denim jacket cover crème goddess maxi. (even check on those Japanese style jewelled belt. It’s mixed with stone, jewel and gingham fabric and rope)

Most ground-braking item is the little number of camo vest, with burnt-out camo patterns mixing with sequins, luuuuush!!!

The collection even makes oversized madras check and Islamic architect patterns looking so feminine and chic.

And also here full of tiny styling tips like mixing skinny scarves with different weight of chains.

It’s turning out to be my SS10 styling bible. So chic but so casual. You can easily walk in a cocktail party after a day-work in these chic looks.

After seeing the collection you realise that sequins and glitter don’t just exist for Christmas party and evening. Lady Gaga recently said, ‘Glitter could save the world.’ And I can’t see anything wrong with that catch phrase in coming 2010!!

Tags: Kenzo, Lady Gaga