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‘Talking to Himself’ — Yohji Yamamoto

Always admir Yohji Yamamoto since a very long time ago. First impression of him and his work was black…and his quietness. You could feel the frustration and anger within his work and that’s why most of time he chose to be silence, and simply, let his work to speak for him.

And the perfect way of expressing himself, apart from his music (Yamamoto is also a published musican) would be a book. It was 2002-3 when an editor friend in Shanghai asked me the favour to get her this book—-’Talking to Myself’ and it gave me the first opportunity of owning something Yohji Yamamoto, a piece of his mind too.

It was probably the most expensive book I have ever purchased. With a £99 price tag (£200 for the signed collectible version) the book itself is indeed a piece of art too. It has won the silver prize of Leipzig Book Fair. Each book was hand written with its own code while distributing.

Navy and black are Yamamoto’s favourite colours, unique. He explains, away from the colour distraction, it is much easier to focus on the construction. And this type of black, which is laid over navy, has more shades and secrets than a simple black.  His AW2010 collection shown here, played his best known colour combination the finest level.

At Barbican Art Centre’s recent Future Beauty exhibition, Yamamoto’s designs were taken the majority of attention. There’s something poetic about his work, same as this book.

The book combines 2 parts which contains his work, sketch, thoughts, quote…

The quote Mr.Yamamoto said in a video interview shown at Barbican Art Centre has somehow awaken me — ‘fashion is to design time’.

Tags: Yohji Yamamoto

Lanvin! H&M!! Lanvin!!!

So yeah Lanvin for H&M collection is finally out. We all can not wait for it. And the title catch line has that super girlie powerness —- ‘ I don’t want flowers, I want Lanvin!’ The collection is undoubtedly huge between mens and womens. I have put below collage together as a wish list including the Mens white tux jacket, lush!

Then I thought the wish list is a bit too long. I will never be able to get them all in the battle. So I reduced the wish list a little bit, which is the collage below… Mens white tux is still a must-have, as well as the lipstick and the sun glasses. So what’s your wish list of Lanvin for H&M??

Tags: H&M, lanvin

SS11 Detail: Salute Gucci Craftsmen

To surprise the audience, all you need to do is to break the normal rules you’ve been setting up and have a break through. That’s exactly what Frida Giannini has done for Gucci SS11. Without a single print, with which Gucci had huge success on previous a few SS collections, this collection is set out to have the bold colours and … amazing craftsmanship. Here we present you a string of closed-up detail shots.

a vest formed by fringing and weaved fine leather strips

lacing up details

this one is particularly clever, weaved with eye-lets, metal rings, waxed cords and leather strips…

weave-through technique continues on a bigger scale by concentrating on the waist…

fine chains, beads and tassel fringings…

You can not have these ideas came out by just sitting in a nice and clean design studios. They are from the amazing experience of craftsman technique which are collected, inherited and passed-on through generations!

Tags: Gucci

Pick One, Maybe Two or Three

J Brand is simply not stopping their massive Designer-Collaboration-Plan and this time instead of teaming with just one designer at time, it’s 5 designers and selling at 5 different locations in London!

Starting from beginning of 2010, we all knew the great print work done by Proenza Schouler. They are slightly high-rise and straight cigarette legs with hand scribble print.

The 5×5 project commissioned by Christopher Kane, Peter Pilotto, Richard Nicoll, Meadham Kirchhoff, and Erdem, a U.K. extension of the wildly successful Proenza Schouler collab. With only 250 pairs in each style, girls are firing up their Sat-navs for the fastest routes: (on the picture from left to right)

It’s Selfridges for Pilotto’s powder-effect hue-print,

Liberty for Nicoll’s slick panel-fronted jean,

Harvey Nichols for Kane’s camouflage high-rise with 10” side-zips,

Browns for Kirchoff’s patched and “hand-repair” heavyweight twill skinny fit boy-jeans,

and Harrods for Erdem’s blue floral print.

Tags: Christopher Kane, Erdem, J Brand, Meadham Kirchhoff, Peter Pilotto, proenza schouler, Richard Nicoll

Unique Detail

Topshop has transformed old Eurostar Terminal at London Waterloo Station to a magic crystal box. With rays of sunlights on Saturday, the details from Topshop Unique looks even more dramatic and mysterious.

scattered diamante stones over the dreamy imagery digital print…

…digital cut-out to form the flying birds silhouette… very finely done…

swirly print with fine chain mail carrying on the 3D form…

really love this lilac-pink acid wash effect…goes so well with multi-jeweled pocket and model’s red hair…

inside shirt is with digital print… you could see the horse head and scenery of plato on shirt’s pocket…

Tags: Topshop Unique

Alexander Wang SS2011 Details

Here’re some detail shots of Alexander Wang show SS11.

Love the pointy knit texture

Love the rope knot sandals

Love the layering tip on bottom dressing.

Love the rip cuff leggings worn underneath shorts

Love the mint colour

Love the pumpkin sued heels

Love the silver in-lined jacket….OMG, the list is endless… …Someone help me please, I’m already being called in the office as Qing-Wang now….

Tags: Alexander Wang

From Now To Then

Selfridges has opened up an exhibition in honor of Dame Vivienne Westwood sponsored by Melissa. The exhibition is located at basement of Selfridges ‘Ultra Lounge’. It’s simply too many gems there.

a lot of them look a bit worn which add on more value of the collection…

each design is labeled with name and the year of launch…

Apolo sandals…

the famous Rocking Horse Ballerina….is one of true originals from 80s…and you can still order these designs from Westwood’s World’s End boutique on King’s Road with around £400-500. Though waiting time is around 4 weeks, it’s definitely a worth waiting purchase.

…I clearly remember this printed toe-shaped multi-straps shoe from year 2002, because I was so close to own them at Davies Street Boutique but lost them to another client just entering the shop before me…damn!!

now these babies are just looking so ‘Current’ and ‘Acceptable’ to wider audience, but back to 15 years ago, those curved heels were a shocking design!

…and with my amazing fashion memory from teenage time, this baby is from 1994…and when I check the year on the label, I’m so proud I was damn right!

Tags: Selfridges, vivienne westwood

Give Away: Autumn Wool Wrap

this giveaway is now closed!

Deadline is 18th of September

It is basically a colour blocking rectangle with 3 armholes

Tags: Giveaways

The African Spirit – Bestow Elan

My recent visit to Pure London was a completely different experience compared to 2 years ago. It has more diversity to the range of selected brands and designers. A group of new young talents emerging through London’s fashion scene and my feeling is, they definitely feel more prepared and matured. One of them is a true born and bred Brixton designer, Erzumah Ackerson, who draws her inspiration from both classic and vintage stimuli, as well as influences from her Ghanaian heritage. I was first drawn to her Moroccan blue head wrap scarf which strongly contrasted to her skin, then my attention stopped on her cleverly cut n’ cross n’ twisted jersey long maxi.

The looped hem detail reminds me the scarf wrapping method I learnt from Morocco. With so many maxis for this summer in flared or in tube, Bestow Elan’s looped hem ‘Toga’ maxi Dress looks fresh and new.

The way she uses African print is also very subtle, a little bit here and there which you can just feel about it, but not overly covered. Like the dress here below, print only peeping out from inside layer of sleeves.

…or like this one, print is contrasted with draped fluid silk on the waist area.

With tribal african print become more and more commercial these days, you probably find it normally in a very safe cut of summer tea dress shape. However, I always wish the vibrant print could be formed in a more modern and unique way instead of a simple tea dress. Bestow Elan is just exactly what I was looking for.

Ackerson use

Tags: African Print, Bestow Elan

Wapping Project & Moonshine Cinema

Last Saturday we went to The Wapping Project, a gallery/restaurant/bar=cool hang out place at Wapping Hydraulic Power Station on Wapping Wall. The place is hosting a BBQ with outdoor black & white movie cinema for their 10th Anniversary.

As you seen, the place is beautifully re-done. It was originally the local hydraulic power station and bought by this couple who was high in british theatre industry. They have kept the most features and made the place somehow not just a cool place but feeling warm, welcome and homy although you will be sitting surrounded by big machines.

With the soft early evening sunlight, the place looks so cinematic…

Candles were lit everywhere to soften the aged machines… …

…they have thought about every single little details… the rolling bar stools…

…the still water jugs seem to have their own lives… …

…and jars of cookies probably know most of stories about here?

love the coordination of rusty iron…sea green…soft grey and black table…

when you walk downstairs, even toilette area is a must-photograph zone… battered concrete wall with glass doors…

BBQ area is located outside, you have 4 different salads.

1. feta cheese – tomato – black olives – basil – salad

2. runner beans – beatroot – salad

3. big couscous – peas – celery – salad

4. cucumber – crunchy seaweed – radish – salad

Their extremely-crunchy-home-made bread is deliiiiicious!

For BBQ meat dish, you could have either Lamb / Prawns / Sardines / Sausages plus 2 types of salads from above.

If you are a vegetarian, you will have 4 salads. Total BBQ per portion per head was £12 which is very reasonable.

So here is the lamb…

…with Sardines…

…and giant tiger prawns… …yum yum!!

And the cinema showed a black & white classic called ‘Of Human Bondage’…I have to agree that all old movies are kind of confusing. Some of the plots and scenes are not so connected in our modern logic mind, but hey…the atmosphere was amazing. They have deck chairs and lots of cushions. My best advice? Take a blanket and lots of snacks!!

BBQ is £12 starts from 7pm and ‘Moonshine Cinema’ is £7 starts at 9pm.

All movie schedules until 28th August is as below:

Friday 6th Agugust – Timecode (15) 2000, Mike Figgis (97mins)

Saturday 7th August – Dark Victory (PG) 1939, Edmund Goulding (104mins)

Friday 13th August – Samson & Delilah (15), 2009, Warwick Thornton (97mins)

Saturday 14th August – Now, Voyager (PG), 1942, Irving Rapper (117mins)

Friday 20th August – The Unloved (5), 2009, Samantha Morton (103mins)

Saturday 21st August – All About Eve (U), 1950, Joseph L.Mankiewicz (138mins)

Friday 27th August – Sweet Sixteen (18), 2002, Ken Loach (106mins)

Saturday 28th August – What Ever Happened To Baby Jane? (12), 1962, Robert Aldrich (134mins)