Favourites of London
Weather during London Fashion Week was horrible. But some of the big names still made London FW quite sizzling. My opinion is, without those big names returned in London stage, it would just be a freak show. (I know this sounds cruel, but why did Galliano, McQueen, Westwood, McCartney all left for Paris?) It’s definitely good to see Burberry Prosum returned here from Milan a few seasons ago, same as Matthew Williamson’s return from New York Fashion Week.
Burberry created some hot-waiting moment on line this season. We were waiting on line with passion to see the live stream and all those shearling details is definitely a genius idea. Christopher Bailey said in the interview that he would like to bring something different, another key piece for Burberry just like trench coat. And he certainly has done so by digging into the archive and english heritage. Mixing hard and soft materials together like sheered chiffon dresses, thigh-high leather boots and the aviator jackets is so clever. Bailey has certainly done it again! I am eager to see who he will name as the new face of AW10 campaign as personally opinion here, Emma Watson is not so suitable for all these looks.
Another Christopher, the scots, Mr. Kane has also massively used leather throughout his show. Leather seems to be his favourite choice for a Fall collection. This time, he mixes lace and embroidery with leather. Even the little oriental ‘QiPao’ look is done so carefully without looking too ethnic like a Chinese traditional dress.
Julien Macdonald brought back his root and did what he’s best known of—-complicated chunky knits and fine lace paneled floaty dress. His collection looks so strong and commercial and is one of our most favourite in our design office.
Another favourite is Jonathan Saunders. I absolutely love the colour palettes with black, white and duck egg. X-ray rose print looks very broad but chic. Also love love the parkas mixed with shiny and mat-surface fabric.
On the other side, certain designers should do more homework than just having publicity stuns such as using plus size model, which feels like ‘do you have any more than just that’?! Fashion is a beauty to watch but not horror like Mark Fast. Surely Fast created lots of rows and gossips during London FW, but putting size 12 models into a size 6 dress and not even giving them decent size knickers is just so unprofessional. I have no problem of using plus size model by recalling a seriously beautiful Sophie Dahl sent down by Jean Paul Gaultier in the past. Certain Fast models were looking so grim while walking down the catwalk. I’m sure they knew themselves looking like an Italian salami.
Big names’ support to London FW is appreciated. While maintaining their reputation within industry, designers like Saunders are also taking off their careers to a more global stage. Yes, London got that punk history and casual streety feel. But with hard effort and less short-cut stuns, I’m sure that London will soon be looking more interesting and professional again, otherwise, it’ll just become an unpleasant Fast food chain.
